"I caught my first wave, dude"
"Whoah"!
I made it to the beach last sunday and surfed for the first time in my life.
"Maibu, 7am!"
Ok, paddled a lot, and caught a 3 inch wave by the beach. But hey, I wore a wetsuit for the first time in my life!
"Some boards are longer than others"
I like surfing. It's like, whoah dude. it's also incredibly tiring. 90% is paddling. but that 10% is worth it. Interesting how I've lived near Malibu for 6 years and it takes an outsider to drag me onto a board.
I like California again. Of course if I keep it up, I might turn into Itai....
"Whoo-hah!"
Like, Whoah, dude
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