Tuesday, June 29, 2004

"I caught my first wave, dude"


"Whoah"!

I made it to the beach last sunday and surfed for the first time in my life.

"Maibu, 7am!"

Ok, paddled a lot, and caught a 3 inch wave by the beach. But hey, I wore a wetsuit for the first time in my life!


"Some boards are longer than others"

I like surfing. It's like, whoah dude. it's also incredibly tiring. 90% is paddling. but that 10% is worth it. Interesting how I've lived near Malibu for 6 years and it takes an outsider to drag me onto a board.

I like California again. Of course if I keep it up, I might turn into Itai....


"Whoo-hah!"

Like, Whoah, dude